A Beaded Bead? Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Last weekend i wandered up to Whidbey Island to visit my god-parents and soak up some beautiful scenery and yummy food.
Before i had even set my bags down, my GM Peggy was taking through all of her craft rooms, of which she has 3 right now, and showed me the incredible projects she has been working on over the past few months. Gorgeous quilts, embroidery, curtains, towels, and then there was the jewelry. Peggy likes to make woven beaded jewlery to relax…she must need to relax a lot because she has hundreds of the most complicated ornate pieces i have ever seen. i have always admired them for the hours of work that goes into each piece.

After i had set my bags down and grabbed a glass of water, Peggy asked if i would like to join her for her beaded  bead class the following day.  A beaded bead you may ask? Oh lord let me tell you! if it can be made, it has been and these ladies are very serious about their craft. i thought sure, why not. it will be a nice time to spend with Peggy doing something she loves and i am always up for a craft.

Peggy took me  to the “bead room” of the house. i was asked to pick out 3 colors-size 11 beads and 1 color-size 14 bead. this was like trying to pick out a puppy at the animal shelter and just when you find the one you want, they take you into another room filled with more perfect puppies to love. Boxes and bags and drawers full of every shade  bead imaginable.

   

After scarfing down a pb&j we headed down to the local library for our class. Everything on Whidbey is cute and has a beautiful view…the library was no exception.  We settled into our room with windows on 4 sides and got to work. As i was reading the instructions that could have been written in russian for all i cared, i started to get nervous. i hate getting behind on a new project. i was anxiously trying to figure out whether i weave the 2 A beads up through the B bead and down through the next two C beads,  or i skip the A bead and move to the next “ladder” and then add 2 A beads. I just looked at Peggy, happily plugging along as i pulled off all of my A beads and started over. She does this to RELAX??? what the hell is a ladder?

Then i figured it out! i loved it! i was having so much fun that when i would finish a row, i would make these deep throated giggles. i was channeling the craft gods and they were responding. We only had time (in  a 3 hour class) to make 1/2 of a beaded bead. The other half would have to be finished at home. I was so excited that after drinking the majority of a bottle of wine, i made 2 more beads and went to bed after midnight.

i think they look like tiny chinese lanterns and i am going to string them up and hang them in my window. i also think they would be really pretty over a christmas tree light.

Crete Part 2, Baked Goods Monday, September 14, 2009

It is time to write about my incredible day in the Amari Valley. I knew months before i went on this trip that i wanted to include a day with Slow Food in some fashion. I wanted to experience something off  the beaten path that would introduce me to the culinary wonders of Crete and its hidden magic. Nicole went straight to the source and asked Slow Food USA if they had a recommendation in Crete for us. Without hesitation they sent us to Kostas Bouyouris. We were so lucky to find a guide who, not only lived in Crete but had a passion and respect for the land.  Kostas  has lived in Crete for several years and works  as an agronomist, educator, landscape architect, guide and businessman in and around the Amari Valley. After picking us up at sunrise in Fodele, he told us that he had grown up in Athens and spent much time finding the perfect place to settle down. Crete was his answer. I can see why.

Nicole and I in the Amari Valley

 As we left the main highways and wound our way up into the hills of the Rethymnon, Kostas spent his time educating us about the region, her people and of course, the food, always with a sparkle in his eye. He loved this land and it showed.  It was contagious.  Crete’s Amari Valley is gloriously fertile and  supplies food for Crete as well as many other areas of Greece. Coming up around a bend, we rose over the lush valley and i instinctively drew in a breath of delight as we looked for miles down into its green folds. I knew we were in for a fantastic day!

Today i will describe our experiences with bread, pastries and, well all things good and baked!

Breakfast of fresh cheese, honey, nuts and fruits

After a delicious breakfast in Panakron (more to come on this place!) consisting of local delights, we headed up into a tiny village where we stepped into the aromatic bliss of fresh baked goods. 
  
Outside our shop were buckets of tiny wild berries and inside were rows of cookies, pastries and fresh breads. YUM!

Maria forming her pastry on the bottom of a crystal bowl

 This is where we met Maria, our baker. Being that the following day was the feast day for Mary, Maria was incredibly well organized and knew that after we left, she had a long day of baking ahead. Yet she never rushed us. She was enjoying us as we were enjoying her time.

 She started with instruction for lovely pasteries stuffed with raisins and nuts. she built the small mounds of dough on the bottom of  a crystal bowl to give it a beautiful star pattern, each one a pillow of perfection. Into the oven they went and on to donuts. Crete-style! mmm!
 

 

 

 After bringing out a bubbling mass of batter in a large bowl, Maria added olive oil and flour and heated up a  pan of olive oil. Maria skillfully pick up a handful of the sticky goo, squeezed it through her fist and quickly spooned up a small a ball of dough to toss into the fat. I am pretty sure this could have been preformed in her sleep.

Perfect. My turn. Not as easy as it looked! she let everyone give it a try. 
 

 

 After the small donuts had browned they were scooped out and drizzled with honey and cinnamon and sesame seeds.

 

Of course these were enjoyed with a home made Raki…it was 9 am afterall.

After getting our fill of pastries and boxing up the rest for later, we headed to Thronos where we met Lambros, his lovely wife, their milk goats, fat pig, chickens, bunnies, dog..

    

who am i missing? Oh Mr Mentios the donkey! He apparently enjoys being taken for walks.

 

Lambros was the first entrepreneur in the area who understood the concept that if he builds it, they will come. His gorgeous facility houses rooms for rent, a taverna, a small store with local products and beautiful views in every direction. It was here that we attempted to milk a very patient goat, walked into the surrounding hills for a history lesson as well as an agriculture lesson and learned to bake bread in an oven heated slowly with olive wood.

 

 

After Lambros brought out a beautiful sourdough mother , we all got our hands in the dough and kneaded 3 huge bags of different  flours  with some olive oil and water. there was no such thing as too many cooks in this makeshift kitchen. I had flour in my hair, on my nose and on my feet?? this should not surprise those of you who know me

   

   

  

I wish i could post the smell in the air and the breeze that knocked my hat of numerous times. It was so beautiful up here.

After we had started the oven fire crackling and shaped our breads, we headed up in to the hills with our certified mountain guide Aris Koutakis. As we walked through the village to our trail head, Aris lectured us about breathing techniques while hiking in the mountains of Greece and how not to overheat.. I thought, where the hell are we going??? We were surrounded by huge mountains and i was wearing a skirt and sandals! Always the worrier, i of course had nothing to worry about. As we foundour way to the trail he passed us wild plums, walnuts, figs ,berries, carob, thyme, and oregano. He pointed out wild hemlock and up to the mountain where Zeus was raised, hidden from his father. He pointed down the valley where the willow trees touched the river that Zeus had bathed in and the huge olive trees where he had sated his lusty appetites. It struck me suddenly that we were in the heart of greek tradition and Pan still lived in the caves above us. I got goosebumps.

 

  

After a short beautiful hike, we came up on a plateau which contained the ruins of Ancient Syvritos where the first coins were cast. Unlike  other ruins, these were silent and empty of  people, just a goat or two. There were bits of pottery on the ground and no fences ommiting our curious feet. Aris sat us down on an ancient wall and passed out information about the site and a map of the area.  As the wind raised around us, I felt like part of this place in history. It was lovely.

  

Walking down the  precarious goat trails back to town, we passed an ancient church and gobbled up plums from the trees. Mr Mentios also received several pats on the bum.

 

By the time we returned  our breads were hot  out of the oven and ready to eat. They look beautiful and tasted even better!

So ends my journey with gluten in the Amari Valley. Next stop, the glorious world of CHEESE and SNAILS!

Coming Home to My Own Corner of Paradise Friday, September 4, 2009

Can I take them home with me?

 I love to travel. I love seeing how other people  live and am always so astounded and pleased to see how similar people are all over the world. It doesnt matter if we live in mansions or mud huts, people want the same basic things in life; sated bellies, happy families, love, a sense of well-being. There is something comforting in this fact no matter how many thousands of miles you are from home. We can find connections anywhere, if we want to.

fresh veggie market crepe. perfection

 

That being said, i love to come home from my travel. I have not once landed at PDX and thought CRAP I’m home! This last trip was no different. Of course I am always a little sad to have ended my journey and am always discombobulated from time changes and airplane food. But it sorts itself out when i ease into my own bed and wake to see what has been happening around home.

 

On my first morning home, I ventured into the garden to see the girls and my veggies etc. I found some beautiful produce and a very bald chicken. Poor Gladys molted and there were feathers everywhere! Her poor little body was covered in quills without feathers and she looked like a very angry porcupine. I was so happy to be home! even with the dead rotting possum under my house…yup

whats for dinner

The following week i spent unpacking, readjusting to work and catching up on sleep. This is also harvest season! i came home from a land that is teaming with beautiful foods to a home that is teaming with beautiful foods! I felt soooo lucky to live here.

The farmers market on saturday morning was at its peak. I walked around in a delighted daze listening to music, people watching and sampling everything i could get my hands on!

     

After we left the market, we headed to Sauvie Island to pick peaches. I wanted to learn to can and figured peaches would be my first attempt at this mysterious piece of my heritage.

Kruger Farms is always entertaining and this time the Mobile Beer Bus was open…so why doesnt this come into the neighborhoods like the icecream trucks? i could totally see adults chasing it down the street with their empty mugs held high.

The peaches were ripe and juicy and the fields had so much bounty.

 

At home Jill and I blanched and pealed peaches. We sliced them up and boiled gallons of  water. It was stressful! I imagine it will get easier as i become more confident that i wont poison myself or my loved ones.

I think they look really pretty. and i added some cardamom pods to give them just s smidge of spice.

tomorrow i return to the land of Crete  to describe my incredible “slow” day in the Amari Valley…sigh

Eating My Way Across Greece…Part 1 Thursday, September 3, 2009

This blog post is long overdue but it has taken me this long to go through most of my 788 pictures and figure out how to present my trip here. Of course i begin with my favorite topic: FOOD! My first several days were spent on the magical island of Crete. I am pretty sure i could live there on my own little farm with my goat and chickens and olive trees. After milking the goats and preparing the day’s cheese, i could venture into town for my morning shot of Raki with a pastry and Greek lesson with the locals. Then work in the garden before the afternoon heat sent me down to the sea for a dip and a late lunch of stuffed vine leaves and fresh tomatoes. Sigh…a girl can have dreams right?

After Crete we spent 5 days in Santorini which were consumed with breath-taking views, hiking into volcanoes and wine tasting. There was also a great deal of shopping to do. Our trip ended in Athens; a gorgeous city merging the ancient with the modern and nestled around the Acropolis.  

Greece is a cornucopia of food bliss and ironically the originator of the cornucopia itself!  From my first day in Crete i was in awe of the fresh local produce available for consumption around every corner. Most people have heard about the Mediterranean diet and its amazing health benefits.  I had the pleasure of experiencing it first hand.

Everything you hear is true. The olives, capers, tomatoes, peppers, oil, melons and cheese are all bursting with flavor and color. Many of our meals were cooked at home after spending the morning in a local town picking up produce from local farmers in the market squares. Buying our food from the people who produced it, gave me the greatest sense of pleasure and glee.

In my humblest opinion, Crete was the greatest example of local food done well. There is a passion for the land by the people who live there and a strong desire to keep tradition and heritage intact. But i will detail that in another posting.

For now i present my plethora of  food images…why did i do this before lunch! i am starving now!

WELCOME TO SARAH’s FOODS OF CRETE!

my first meal after becoming coherent from a long travel day was in the harbor town of Chania on the northwest side of Crete. The town was lovely and this restaurant epitomizes the magic of wandering around on the back streets of town. If you ever make it to Crete check out Steki Taverna…the food was excellent!

 this was my first salad. the feta was soft, almost like a salty chevre and the capers were bursting with flavor!

 this was my FAVORITE thing ever! a slab of feta was wrapped in light crisp filo fried in olive oil, drizzled with thyme honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds. it was served hot and salty. SO GOOD

the following day we ventured into the village of Argyroupoli to sample their avocado products and see this town that is build on the side of a mountain and surrounded by waterfalls. so beautiful and about 20 degrees cooler! I could imagine what it was like there a thousand years ago…less tavernas but same water and trails and smiling faces i hope

 Our lovely Taverna owner was plucking fresh trout for lunch. As the meal progressed it became apparent that anyone could take a try with the net but the children had a real knack for it. these fish were fried and served whole with yogurt sauce, capers and lemon.

 we dined on the traditional Crete rusk bread (read really dry wheat rolls) covered in  fresh mashed tomatoes and fresh feta. we also had rice and herb stuffed zucchini blossoms. SO FRESH!

For dessert we had fresh melon kept cool in a local stream. i wish i had caught a shot of this melon, it was sooooo red and juicy and cold. the tavernas just throw half a cut melon on a plate, stick forks in it and place it in the center of the table…that is what i call good eats!

 note the fig tree growing out of the same stream bed. fig trees would grow out of the roof of your car if you let them! they were everywhere.

i opted not to go for the roasted lamb roasting over the open fires about 1 inch from the side of the road.  yup i know…big weenie.

on our way home we stopped in the town of  Georgioupolis to pick up dinner and cheap beach towels for 2e.

While in the grocery store, I was quite mesmerized with this little contraption! Why oh why do we not have these at every market in town? i have discovered another reason to live on Crete. Just grab a container and select your spigot of choice for local red, local white or local retsina….mmmm retsina. thank you thank you thank you for your Retsina wines. Who cant love wine that is made with the tears of wood nymphs?  huh, I wonder what is in the top barrel? i missed that one.

The markets in Iraklion were incredible. we were able to get all of our produce for dinner and breakfast for the next couple of days.

  the grapes were so juicy! look at all the bean options!

this woman in her typical black garb was my very favorite. if i had more time…I would have loved to meet her. She brought her own cart to the market. in her cart were fresh eggs, live snails, zucchini blossoms, figs, tomatoes, pears, garlic, oil and wine in recycled water bottles and a variety of herbs. When we came back later in the day, she had packed up and gone home. I hope because she had sold all of her items. I wanted her to take me home and teach me to cook!

that night, i made a ragout of eggplant, tomato, onion and oregano, fresh figs with a local semi hard sheep’s milk cheese and these bitty little pears that packed so much flavor i am still craving them, and a fresh Greek salad with feta…of course! 

 we dined on the patio of our villa as the cool evening breeze came in over the sea. it was pretty much perfect. we were also working our way through the vast quantities of local Cretan whites.

after an incredible “slow” day in the Amari Valley (which i will blog about extensively) i discovered that the wild vine growing near the pool with the 1 inch spikes was a wild caper plant!! i was so excited that i sat with it for a good long time poking and tasting and sniffing. it really did smell like caper berries!

in crete they eat the buds and the leaves. I have seen pickled caper berries in the states but i didnt see anyone eat one in Crete and after i opened it, i wasnt going to venture either.

 they are like tiny ripe watermelon. Can we eat them??

At this point i am taking a giant leap to the north and mycontinued quest for food in Santorini.

I discovered quickly that food is not the main focus of Santorini, it is a place for lovers and sun worshippers and shoppers. Although it was quite gorgeous, i only had 2 meals that stand out and one of them was simply because the view would have made a 4 star Michelin meal pale. So i will begin with what i loved best, the wine!

  The grapes on santorini grow close to the ground in small clumps to collect the morning dew from the sea and hold it safe through the hottest parts of the day.

we were lucky enough to tour a local winery called Gavala Vineyards. Gavalas has been producing wines here for 300 years!! lucky for us we were the only people there that day and were given a tasting of 5 delightful wines including a Vinsanto dessert wine that i brought home. I am very much looking forward to the occasion i get to enjoy this!

 

 they still use the old grape stomping vats to produce their wines which pour through the lower right tube into hte basin with a basket to capture the seeds and skins…which of course then become Raki! ohhh Raki…but that is a tale for another time

 this was my first great meal in Santorini; Pork Souvlaki with a roasted broccoli and cauliflower salad and lemons…everything had lemons. YUM!

I will leave off this wild food extravaganza with a gorgeous sunset over Thirasia Island and a pair of wineglasses full of local Santorini white. if i squint, i can almost pretend i am still there.

Writing from greece Saturday, August 8, 2009

I am writing from the Athens airport waiting for my flight to Crete. So far I am at 20 hours of travel and haven’t slept yet! But walking outside the airport into the sunshine and cool breeze and realizing THIS IS GREECE!!! Makes it all better. I have never posted to my blog from my iPhone and not sure I can add pictures but those will come:)

My Blue Hawaii Tuesday, February 24, 2009

I just got back from Hawaii last night. i spent 6 short days in the sunshine, the blue water and the amazing trade winds. Put all of that together and you have yourself a fantastic place.

This was my first trip to Hawaii and i didnt understand what all the hoopla was all about. i get it now. the people are awesome, there are no language barriers and you just cant beat the weather. I have pictures and more to write about this but i am still so tired i can barely keep my eyes open. I also have 4 animals hovering around my feet looking for some love, or maybe some dinner. maybe both!

so the Highlight of my trip? My dear dear uncle Paddy. without a doubt he turned a simple visit to the beach into a memory i will never forget. I would have gone to visit him in Little Rock or Detroit but lucky for me, i had to go to Hawaii DARN! at 86 he drove me around the entire island, made sure i hit all the best beaches and sites and ate lots of seafood. He also took me snorkeling each day i was there and never missed his date with his dear friend Louie who has alzheimer and enjoys to feed to fish each day. What a man. When i cried after he left us at the airport my friend Molly told me that she didnt think Paddy is as sentimental as i am. I dont think a lot of people are as sentimental as i am. I think Paddy is very sentimental.

Elizabeth Gilbert and Ann Patchett Thursday, February 12, 2009

Yet once again I had the pleasure to sit and listen to Elizabeth Gilbert share stories about her life and writing process. This time we got to up the ante as she shared the stage with Ann Patchett. As I took my seat in the cheap GA section about 3 feet from the ceiling, I wasn’t sure what to expect.
There were 2 big fat mushy chairs on the stage with a small table in between and a couple glasses of water. I imagined them with a bottle of wine and a fireplace in someone’s living room, maybe mine.  I didn’t realize how far up I was until these two tiny woman came out onto the stage and curled up in their chairs like cats, feet tucked beneath. I was already smiling.
I was there to witness the second meeting of two friends who had become friends over long poetic letters to each other. They were as excited as we were. They sat and just talked to each other. They praised each other and questioned each other. They questioned their own abilities and praised each other’s abilities. It was magical.
Again the topic of being childless came up. Both of these women had chosen to not be mothers. However both of these women also took their responsibilities as aunties very seriously. They understood that even if they remained in constant motion, they would produce 1/10th of the energy expended by a mother of one child. Therefore they felt it was their duty and privilege to be a power house for mothers and their children. I love that! I want to be a mother one day, but until then I want to give all the extra energy I have to those who are participating in the raising of our next generation. I am part of that process if I want to be and what a gift to everyone involved.
They also talked about their writing styles. Ann Patchett is an observer. She relishes her invisibility in the world and is still astounded by how invisible she really is, even to those who have seen her in public before. Liz Gilbert is in a cone of light. She enters a space and directs it to get what she needs for her story. She went to Maine to a small lobster island and had to bend the wills of these introverts to write her story. She also does so with a beauty and grace that makes people want to help her.
After EG and AP had chatted for about 30 minutes (MUCH TOO SHORT) they took questions from the audience. They had several insights about themselves and each other that were profound. One that I was intrigued with was a question for EG. Someone in the audience wanted some advice about traveling alone as a single woman. And how to do so without doing the typical tourist thing.
First EG said that women should dress modestly. She said that we should cover our arms and legs and our bellies. We are only alienating the women in other parts of the world that we want to connect with. She told a story about introducing a young Dutch woman dressed in a tank top and mini skirt to her medicine man and to this day she regrets not dressing her in sarongs from head to toe. The look on his wife’s face was devastating. She was tortured by this young half naked girl in her home. Dress modestly and behave modestly. She also said that we are all so concerned about being common that we are missing out on great things. If you have one week in Egypt and are so concerned about being a tourist that you miss seeing the Pyramids, you are foolish. Get on the bus with all the Germans and enjoy one of the wonders of the world. The greatest wonders of the world are some of the most popular so deal with it.
I was taken by this concept. I have done both. I have lived in a place with a kitchen and bought my own groceries and I have stayed in big lush hotels and hit all the hot spots. There is a time and a place for both ways of travel and both offer unimagined memories. Of course I want to have a one of a kind experience but even at the base of the pyramids amidst thousands of tourists from all over the world, it was a one of a kind experience because it was my experience…and I was the only one who got in a fight with the man on the camel and threw my “rock” on the ground. Of course I did.

Christmas Wishes From Italy! Monday, December 22, 2008

3 years ago i went to Italy and had the very best time! it was my first trip to Europe, let alone across the world and i think it will always be closest to my heart. When i was in Florence I took a cooking class with Silvia. She met us at the market where I sampled 30 year old balsamic vinegar on sun warmed strawberries, watched old Italian men breakfast on tripe soaked baguettes with a glass of red wine and savored meats, cheeses and whole candied oranges from local venders. i have no words to describe how special that was for me. Then she brought us to her gorgeous flat where we cooked pork loin, roasted pepper souffles and made pasta stuffed with asparagus and ham while we drank a variety of wines from her pantry. I have never forgotten that day with her.

SO, just yesterday I got an email from her! i was so surprised to hear from Silvia. She sent me  merry christmas wishes AND a traditional recipe from her family for limoncello! i had to share it with you.

Silvia’s Limoncello

12 big lemons (thick skin and organic)

alcohol 95 proof 1 LT

sugar 1kg

water 1lt

Lemons should be perfect and show no stains and a thick skin

with a peeler zest lemon in thin strips (only yellow part, no white)

place lemon zest in a big jar and pour the alcohol on

seal jar and set aside for 15 days, shaking from time to time.

when done, prepare the sugar syrup; bring water to boil, pour the sugar and cook for 15 minutes, until completely disolved.

wait until the syrup is completely cool and then add it on the alcohol/zest mixture, otherwise your limoncello would look milky.

stir and let rest one day before you bottle it.

I cant wait to try it! i still have my bottle of limoncello from italy just because i dont want it to all be gone. i am still trying to get Silvia out to Portland for a cooking class. Stay tuned.

ENJOY AND STAY WARM. Oh and my furnace is fixed YIPPEEE i am warm!

New Hats Friday, October 10, 2008

I was weeding out my hotmail account and found this picture taken a couple of years ago. I was traveling in the middle east and spent a few days in Jerusalem!  It snowed 8 inches for the first time in like 10 years. It was the coldest snow i have ever experienced. I think because everything is made out of stones? Matt and Kathleen and I had to buy Jerusalem hats out of the back of a car on the Mount of Olives for 8 shekels($2?)…they matched but we were warm for the first time all day! I love this picture. Less then 2 weeks after we got home, a bomb exploded right were we are standing. I still wear my hat when it is cold.

Birdie Num Nums Thursday, October 9, 2008

My travel companions gave me a cd of photos from my recent trip to France and these 2 just made me drool like a basset hound on marshmallow cream.

These were taken in San Tropez at the market. The first is roasted stuffed spring veggies and the second is cheese stuffed squash blossoms. Arent they beautiful?